The weather was a blessing whilst we were out in this huge city. Its a lot hotter than Mexico city because its a good 5 hours closer to the coast and we made the most of it, taking walks through the square and parks and of course the supermarket. (We cooked in the kitchen for most of the time to nurse our dwindling funds back to health!) There was corn growing on the cathedral front there - quite appropriate really! Our quiet hostel with the pottery tiled terraces, was full of Americans and other English speaking nationalities who were there for a botonay conference! They were a little dull compared to the company we'd had in Lima, but friendly enough! The place had much more of a holiday feel to it, and we met quite a few other couples who were visiting for a week or two. It was strange to have people be surprised that we'd been away for so long, rather than have the length of time compared and commented on.
We had lots of lazy mornings, reading (I FINISHED Shataram!! The best book I have ever read!), listening to music and sunbathing until I had to dash under a cold shower to stop myself from melting in the 36 degree heat! We decided to head back to Mexico City a few days early though, so that we could watch the England vs. USA world cup match with English supporters! Gutted that we drew, the yanks here wont let us hear the end of it - "We don't even PLAY football!" or "Why do the Enligh keep inventing sports that they aren't even any good at?!". We had a wild celebratory night in last night, before we go back to stay at Monica's house, with the local DJ starting up the music that I'm beginning to actually recognise at 11pm.
That's really all there is left to tell you of my travel tales! I can't believe it has come to an end so quickly. Gutted in some ways but really excited to get home and see you all! It was the best decision I ever made to take a gap year and travel. That much I'm certain of.
Over and Out
X
Saturday, 12 June 2010
Lima --> Mexico
We headed to Lima the next day, arriving in the rain! Hostel Loki, that we had our hearts set on after we'd fallen in love with its sister hostel in La Paz, Bolivia, was fully booked. Rookie error we hadn't made reservations. Instead we stayed in a much quieter "Hitchiker Hostel" and spent the evening in the Loki bar meeting people who had strangely just started their trip! Seemed like a cruel joke as we were more than aware that we only had 2 weeks left away. The chicken caeser salad made up for it though. The best I'd had whilst being away - its rediculously hard to find a good salad in South America and you are often warned to avoid them as the leaves are washed in the tap water which you shouldnt drink if you aren't local! Anywho, we had a fantastic night, going to see the casinos in Miraflores in a massive group, and leaving dissapointed that you had to gamble in american dollars. I hadnt been anywhere so "classy" and modern since....well London! It felt very foreign having been in Cusco for almost 2 weeks, where the country's wealth is a litte less great. We met some great people as always though and left them the following night, mid-party at about 2am to catch our flight to Mexico. We were devestated to be leaving SA that we'd fallen head over heals in love with, and also Milly who we'd had as a fellow traveller for 2 weeks! The flights were hellish, though Lima's airport was surprisingly pleasant! We were tired from the night before, I picked up a stomach bug, leaving at 2am and having to stay awake till we got on the plane was a real strain. We woke up after about 3 hours sleep, to a aeroplane breakfast we just didn't want and had to change planes at local time 10am. The sunrise I saw over the clouds from the plane window was a pocket of delight though in the lengthy trip. We then waited in the longest immigration que I have ever encountered, hungry and surviving on crackers, and finally arrived in Mexico City on edge from all the things you hear about mugging and worse. All in all it was not a great experience from A to B, BUT we were greeted with tea and beds and HOT showers which was a difinate novelty after travelling through Peru and Bolivia where they just don't exsist! Being in a house was a huge contrast to what we were used to. It felt wrong! But we took advantage of it and managed to get out into the city over the next week to see: the Cathedral and Palace, go on a turibus, visit the anthropology museum, enjoy starbucks, see a movie, without any hitches. The city was a lot cleaner and more modern than I was expecting, but it made sense as Mexico is the interim between SAmerica and the USA, so it was bound to be a step up towards westernisation. However, we still didn't go out after dark, to be safe!
Wacachina's Sand Dunes
Leaving Cusco was soo sad. Didn't want to leave all the friends we'd made there behind BUT we were out to go sandboarding. After an overnight bus on which Milly got foodpoisoning from the meal she was served, we arrived in the hot sunshine, back to a normal level of altitude that didnt leave you panting!! Barely recovered from our hours on the road we hopped into a dune buggy and blasted up the hill in the afternoon heat with the sandboards slung in the back. We flew off the tops of the dunes and crashed down the other sides of the peaks. Was so much fun just being a passenger! The wind whipped sand into our eyes but it was a small price to pay for being pushed over the edge of a ridge to speed down on your stomach, bouncing all the way. The sand was so soft, compared to the sand in England and we rolled around in it as the sun set around us lighting up the sky red and casting an amber glow over the dunes. I tried it with a snowboard too but completely wiped out half way down as I lost my balance and tumbled down the slope in cartoon cartwheel style. It was a lovely landing, the sand cushioning every part of my body that made contact with the hill. It was harder than just taboganing it down the hill though so I reverted to the faster option. Had the most incredible pancake with fruit and plentiful chocolate sauce afterwards, it rivaled the one Id had in New York years ago. I'd reccommend sandboarding to anyone, snowboarder or not though!
Wednesday, 9 June 2010
Machu Picchu & Cusco
Cusco was stunning, I had the best week of my life and met and made friends that I know I'll keep in touch with, or even plan a future trip with! The inca buildings had simplistic beautifully cut stones to make up the bases, but intricately carved fronts that overlooked the square we came to be so familiar with. There was actually a McDonalds looking out with an imitated inca style front and a Brown M, there, much to our horror! The nightlife was vibrant and going to clubs was an interesting affair. Once they spotted you walking across the plaza towards them, the club promotors would rush out and surround you, throwing free drink vouchers at you to persuade you that their club was the one you would have the best night at. At one point they actually picked us up and had us arm in arm, a bouncer either side of each of us! A little unnerving!! We lost our little llama finger puppet that we'd had with us throughout Peru and had featured in lots of photographs, in one of these almost violent moments and we grieved (for a moment) when we finally got into the safety of the club. His proudest moment had been reaching the top of Machu Picchu and climbing a plant to survey the view. Which was stunning, easily the best view I've laid eyes on in my life. When we got to the top, we just sat and absorbed for hours. We had some of the best weather too so we were lucky we could see as far as we could - there are often clouds of mist that hang around over the valley but the day we were there it was clear.
The climb up was epic. We began, (Nick & Grant -the kiwis- and Ash, Dick & I - the English) in the pitch black, at 4am, barely able to see the dirt track infront of us. The rugged edge of the sheer inky mountainside above us was barely visible. Just the absense of stars told us it was there. We strode ahead alongside a roaring river and nearly jumped out of our skins when a streak of black leapt out of nowhere and circled us. Puma!! Oh wait no, just a dog! We continued in determined silence - the 3000 stairs we had to climb ahead of us would take us 2 hours, we'd been told. We crossed the bridge and began the first set, after scrambling around in the dark to find our tickets which we were told we had to fill in. We did so on eachothers backs & the rocks , squinting to see, and were finally let through! They were alot steeper than i was expecting. I had to take a kindof run at some of them to get the momentum to get up them. Even the boys with their longer legs struggled a little. We were all panting and soaked through with sweat in minutes. The altitude made breathing a lot less effective and we had to stop for Grant, who felt sick at about 2000 steps in. He'd hammered it a little too hard striding ahead of us - that'd teach him! We'd stormed up most of the way with a few brief water breaks, the path lit only by a keyring torch and Dick's trusty Nokia! We stopped for breakfast in a conveniently placed mud hut, rushing down our oreos as we were passed by a few groups, determined not to get any further behind! About 10 minutes later we could here whoops and shouts above us and we knew we must be near the top. We rounded the last corner (the path snaked its way up) having been able to turn off our toches for the last stretch as the first hints of sunrise arrived. Exhausted, but having expected a longer treck, we tagged onto the bunch of people waiting for the gates to open. I reckon we were about the 75th people to arrive. The night's cold shook off our hot sweats and we began to shiver as we waited, being wet didn't help! The sun began to illuminate just the peaks of the mountains across the valley from us. The que grew and grew behind us and we got through the gate just after the first buses began to arrive and the girls got off to be reunited with team Shelly!! We met our guide - Pedro - and he dubbed us the spice girls in his thick accent. He took us round the site, always pointing out the "condor" shaped rocks. We were exhausted after 2 hours of history and step climbing, and flopped down with our backs against the ruins at the end of the tour. It wasn't even 9am yet. We ate "lunch" and regrouped to climb our next challenge - Wanapicchu. I've never climbed so many steps in one go in all my life. But the view at the top made it worth it. We had clear skies so we could see 360 around us, including the river winding below us on one side, Machu Picchu shrunk down to postcard size on the other and the snaking scar of the dirt track up to the gate that we'd cut through that morning. It seemed impossibly far below us. "Dinner" on the flat rocks at the top was just wonderful. The air was filled with our laughter and chatter. Eventually, reluctantly, we climbed down the precariously steep stone stairs perched at random angles, clutching at the rocks beside us. Our legs were complete jelly by the bottom and each step down sent a new spasm off. We were ravenous by this time. We'd been surviving on biscuits and fruit and plastic cheese and ham bread rolls. We tore into the rediculously overpriced burgers and quiches gratefully. Refreshed with the whole afternoon ahead of us, we climbed to the top of the Machu Picchu area to the little stone house where we sat and absorbed another gobsmacking view. I watched the Llamas nibble on the shelves of grass below us and the maintenance staff milling around watering the land. Some tour groups were just beginning their rounds and we looked on at them pitifully. They wouldnt have time to climb Wanapicchu for that spectacular view of the velvety gree mountains around us. We collapsed down on one of the shady shelves, all 8 of us, not wanting to leave but too tired to go anywhere else! Finally we plucked up the energy from who knows where to power down the last 3000 steps to return to our "hostel". We'd stayed there the night before, 8 of us packed into 4 beds because they didn't have enough room! But they refused to let us shower when we got back!! We argued them down and a few of us had icy cold ones. We were so filthy from all the dust and sweat but without fresh clothes to change into it seemed a little pointless!
Team Shelly (our friend Ashely had his name mispelt on his ticket and team Shelly was born) went out in search of a large replenishing meal accompanied by free drinks. We were gravely dissapointed when the huge portions of enchilladas we were promised turned out to be less than a starter sized portion each. I don't think I've ever seen such angry faces. We stormed out (not before wolfing them down) and onto the next place where we were won over by free garlic bread and 8 beers for 35 sol (9 pounds). We had a great train ride home, our spirits lifted again by the food, we joked our way back, chatting to the yanks sat next to us periodically. That day, one of the longest too, was a sure highlight of the trip.
The climb up was epic. We began, (Nick & Grant -the kiwis- and Ash, Dick & I - the English) in the pitch black, at 4am, barely able to see the dirt track infront of us. The rugged edge of the sheer inky mountainside above us was barely visible. Just the absense of stars told us it was there. We strode ahead alongside a roaring river and nearly jumped out of our skins when a streak of black leapt out of nowhere and circled us. Puma!! Oh wait no, just a dog! We continued in determined silence - the 3000 stairs we had to climb ahead of us would take us 2 hours, we'd been told. We crossed the bridge and began the first set, after scrambling around in the dark to find our tickets which we were told we had to fill in. We did so on eachothers backs & the rocks , squinting to see, and were finally let through! They were alot steeper than i was expecting. I had to take a kindof run at some of them to get the momentum to get up them. Even the boys with their longer legs struggled a little. We were all panting and soaked through with sweat in minutes. The altitude made breathing a lot less effective and we had to stop for Grant, who felt sick at about 2000 steps in. He'd hammered it a little too hard striding ahead of us - that'd teach him! We'd stormed up most of the way with a few brief water breaks, the path lit only by a keyring torch and Dick's trusty Nokia! We stopped for breakfast in a conveniently placed mud hut, rushing down our oreos as we were passed by a few groups, determined not to get any further behind! About 10 minutes later we could here whoops and shouts above us and we knew we must be near the top. We rounded the last corner (the path snaked its way up) having been able to turn off our toches for the last stretch as the first hints of sunrise arrived. Exhausted, but having expected a longer treck, we tagged onto the bunch of people waiting for the gates to open. I reckon we were about the 75th people to arrive. The night's cold shook off our hot sweats and we began to shiver as we waited, being wet didn't help! The sun began to illuminate just the peaks of the mountains across the valley from us. The que grew and grew behind us and we got through the gate just after the first buses began to arrive and the girls got off to be reunited with team Shelly!! We met our guide - Pedro - and he dubbed us the spice girls in his thick accent. He took us round the site, always pointing out the "condor" shaped rocks. We were exhausted after 2 hours of history and step climbing, and flopped down with our backs against the ruins at the end of the tour. It wasn't even 9am yet. We ate "lunch" and regrouped to climb our next challenge - Wanapicchu. I've never climbed so many steps in one go in all my life. But the view at the top made it worth it. We had clear skies so we could see 360 around us, including the river winding below us on one side, Machu Picchu shrunk down to postcard size on the other and the snaking scar of the dirt track up to the gate that we'd cut through that morning. It seemed impossibly far below us. "Dinner" on the flat rocks at the top was just wonderful. The air was filled with our laughter and chatter. Eventually, reluctantly, we climbed down the precariously steep stone stairs perched at random angles, clutching at the rocks beside us. Our legs were complete jelly by the bottom and each step down sent a new spasm off. We were ravenous by this time. We'd been surviving on biscuits and fruit and plastic cheese and ham bread rolls. We tore into the rediculously overpriced burgers and quiches gratefully. Refreshed with the whole afternoon ahead of us, we climbed to the top of the Machu Picchu area to the little stone house where we sat and absorbed another gobsmacking view. I watched the Llamas nibble on the shelves of grass below us and the maintenance staff milling around watering the land. Some tour groups were just beginning their rounds and we looked on at them pitifully. They wouldnt have time to climb Wanapicchu for that spectacular view of the velvety gree mountains around us. We collapsed down on one of the shady shelves, all 8 of us, not wanting to leave but too tired to go anywhere else! Finally we plucked up the energy from who knows where to power down the last 3000 steps to return to our "hostel". We'd stayed there the night before, 8 of us packed into 4 beds because they didn't have enough room! But they refused to let us shower when we got back!! We argued them down and a few of us had icy cold ones. We were so filthy from all the dust and sweat but without fresh clothes to change into it seemed a little pointless!
Team Shelly (our friend Ashely had his name mispelt on his ticket and team Shelly was born) went out in search of a large replenishing meal accompanied by free drinks. We were gravely dissapointed when the huge portions of enchilladas we were promised turned out to be less than a starter sized portion each. I don't think I've ever seen such angry faces. We stormed out (not before wolfing them down) and onto the next place where we were won over by free garlic bread and 8 beers for 35 sol (9 pounds). We had a great train ride home, our spirits lifted again by the food, we joked our way back, chatting to the yanks sat next to us periodically. That day, one of the longest too, was a sure highlight of the trip.
Wednesday, 19 May 2010
Writing from Peru...
Well the salt flats were incredible, I never knew SA had such diverse landscape to offer! Flamingos, wind eroded rocks, dust tracks, lagoons of red blue and green, coloured mountains, volcanoes, miles of flat salt and villages made of it. It was rediculously cold with 4 blnakets and sleepingbag not constituting enough to get out of clothes and into pajamas.
La Paz was less incredible, but then i mostly saw it from the inside of my bedroom as i caught a nasty food bug on day 3. Before that we did little but meet the seeming millions of people that were staying at Loki hostel. It had everything you could have needed which made it very difficult to leave and what with the demonstrations and steep slopes of the valley we were contained in combined with altitude rendering us breathless with every flight of stairs, it near impossible to see the city! The markets we did see were just row after row of the bolivian bright strip so common in the aream and the millions of alapaca jumpers and scarves in all sizes down to baby outfits! The death road was a trip and half too; the most dangerous road in the world, for which i have a teeshirt to prove I completed it without dying! So much fun I had forgotten how much i love biking. There were a few points where I had to put my foot down to slow the downhill pick up of speed that just KEPT happening right before I came across a corner but so thrilling!
We left on the coldest bus journey of our lives after a day on isla del sol - aptly named as the back of my arms are STILL raw with the burn I stupidly got that day (ok it was yesterday). We walked from the North of the Island to the south and that was no easy feat! Some seriously steep slopes and 4 hours of breathlessness was worth it for the stunning views of lake Titicaca. It was so huge we had to keep reminding ourselves that it was NOT the sea! Some of the rocks just rose out of the still crystal blue water effortlessly at slanting angles and the boats floating on the shore of the island were so picturesque. There were no vehicles AT ALL on the island and the path was stony and impassable by them anyway. Huge sense of achievement when we finished. With no time for dinner before the boat home the only thing that distracted me from my hunger was the wind whipping through my hair on the top deck as the smaller islands chugged by and the Che Guevara book that had been leant to me for the day - Fancinating, even more so when you have visited the places he had seen and where he'd grown up.
Arived in Cuzco at 5am local time this morning with no Sol to pay for the taxi - luckily we were travelling with friends we'd made in La Paz who bailed us through that one! The hostel has wonderfuly hot showers (not a necessarily available commodity in the mountains where its coldest anyway) and the city is so beautiful. There are plazas on every couple of blocks giving the city a massive spacious feel in comparison to La Paz which is all poured on top of itself into the valley. We plan to indulge in some shopping of souveniers tomrrow now that we are nearing the end of our trip and wont have to carry bags TOO much further. The jewelry is rife here so I plan to start with that! We also came across a building with the entire 2m base made of stones cut perfectly to fit into one another - no cement was used to make the structure solid at all - and it was built at a 7 degree angle, together making a building that can withstand earthquakes without any modern engineering! I was shouted at when I touched it... We plan to get off to Machu Picchu in the next couple of days so that is the next tourist attraction in my sights. Adios para a hora amigos. XXXX
La Paz was less incredible, but then i mostly saw it from the inside of my bedroom as i caught a nasty food bug on day 3. Before that we did little but meet the seeming millions of people that were staying at Loki hostel. It had everything you could have needed which made it very difficult to leave and what with the demonstrations and steep slopes of the valley we were contained in combined with altitude rendering us breathless with every flight of stairs, it near impossible to see the city! The markets we did see were just row after row of the bolivian bright strip so common in the aream and the millions of alapaca jumpers and scarves in all sizes down to baby outfits! The death road was a trip and half too; the most dangerous road in the world, for which i have a teeshirt to prove I completed it without dying! So much fun I had forgotten how much i love biking. There were a few points where I had to put my foot down to slow the downhill pick up of speed that just KEPT happening right before I came across a corner but so thrilling!
We left on the coldest bus journey of our lives after a day on isla del sol - aptly named as the back of my arms are STILL raw with the burn I stupidly got that day (ok it was yesterday). We walked from the North of the Island to the south and that was no easy feat! Some seriously steep slopes and 4 hours of breathlessness was worth it for the stunning views of lake Titicaca. It was so huge we had to keep reminding ourselves that it was NOT the sea! Some of the rocks just rose out of the still crystal blue water effortlessly at slanting angles and the boats floating on the shore of the island were so picturesque. There were no vehicles AT ALL on the island and the path was stony and impassable by them anyway. Huge sense of achievement when we finished. With no time for dinner before the boat home the only thing that distracted me from my hunger was the wind whipping through my hair on the top deck as the smaller islands chugged by and the Che Guevara book that had been leant to me for the day - Fancinating, even more so when you have visited the places he had seen and where he'd grown up.
Arived in Cuzco at 5am local time this morning with no Sol to pay for the taxi - luckily we were travelling with friends we'd made in La Paz who bailed us through that one! The hostel has wonderfuly hot showers (not a necessarily available commodity in the mountains where its coldest anyway) and the city is so beautiful. There are plazas on every couple of blocks giving the city a massive spacious feel in comparison to La Paz which is all poured on top of itself into the valley. We plan to indulge in some shopping of souveniers tomrrow now that we are nearing the end of our trip and wont have to carry bags TOO much further. The jewelry is rife here so I plan to start with that! We also came across a building with the entire 2m base made of stones cut perfectly to fit into one another - no cement was used to make the structure solid at all - and it was built at a 7 degree angle, together making a building that can withstand earthquakes without any modern engineering! I was shouted at when I touched it... We plan to get off to Machu Picchu in the next couple of days so that is the next tourist attraction in my sights. Adios para a hora amigos. XXXX
Monday, 10 May 2010
Bolivia
We left La Cumbre after Marie had cooked us the first spicy meal we'd had since arriving in Argentina, as a farewell. Took a bus up to La Quica (border) on the wonderfully smooth roads, arriving with enough time to walk across the border with some japanese girls and a german biker. We lurched and bumped up the Bolivian roads to Tupiza where we stayed the night, in our first twin room after a long run of dorms, and the best hostel breakfast we´ve encountered so far. We left brefrswhed for Uyuni and booked the Oasis tour on arrival. We shared the bus journey with 3 other gringos and on arrival, went out to dinner to the best pizzeria in town. Delicious. Slept in the FREEZING mountain town with 4 blankets and fully dressed, and crammed ourselves into the back of a jeep in the morning, a little out of breath and with a slight headache from the altitude. The tour was incredible, landscape like nothing youve ever seen. Desert cactuses amongst salt flats and the hot sun beating down whilst you look at snow topped mountains in the distance. We stayed in a hotel made entirely of salt and made some great friends. Sharing oreos and exchanging music the whole drive, we really enjoyed the trip. We of course, took the typical perspective photos too which I shall put up on return to the UK. We have now arrived safe and sound in La Paz after a sleepless night on yet another nightbus journey, on which we got a puncture. 6am arrival = very tired and full hostel = no beds till 1pm. Till we meet again.... Love to all XX
Sunday, 2 May 2010
La Cumbre
Our minicoach with reclining seats swerved its way out of Cordoba lulling me to sleep. When I awoke in the late afternoon my eyes fell on the beautiful mountains I had seen earlier this week from the air. We had wound our way amongst them and our trip out of the city had begun. It was a treat to escape the hoards of people who you fight for your space between on the streets and the noisy traffic. Our hostel had a pool (not that you'd have EVER jumped into the green sludgey water) and no English speakers. Once we'd been shown to our room by an old spanish lady with wirey hair and missing teeth I settled down outside in the warm late afternoon sun to write in my journel, which has been kept surprisingly well! There were bikes laid all over the sloping grass out the back of the stone house, being tweaked and maintained by a group of young argentines. The place was deserted other than that, as La Cumbre is where you come for outdoor activities. The radio floated spanish voices and music into the still air, accompanied by birds that visited the roof and the crackling fire inside a more permanent oven style barbeque ready for the evening essado. The odd motorbike could be heard starting up and pulling away in the distance. We wandered into "town" and found that we had arrived coincidently just before the biggest bike race in Argentina is held every year! 9km long the roads were filled with cyclists kitted out in race gear and emerald, amber or azure sunglasses. The sun set over the mountainside leaving yellow and blue layers in the sky, and a cool fresh air settled over us, certainly the coldest it has been since leaving home! Dinner, acompanied by books, was a deliciously creamy tomato & cheese sauce on spagetti, (how I love comfort food) on a deserted upstairs balcony.
We rose early in the morning, Rhi setting out to horseride in the mountains and me to satisfy my addiction to the sky: I went Paragliding! The sun heated the cool morning air quickly and I was glad to be hurtling along a mountain road in a red rusting truck with the windows down and the dust blowing through my hair. We darted around cyclists the entire way, swerving to miss larger rocks and ruts in the dirt track, and jiggling over cattle grates. Conversation was a real mess of spanish, english and french! But we got by and taught eachother a little of each. The mountains opened up infront of us to reveal a valley speckled with cactuses amongst a thick covering of bundled greenery, that thinned out towards the river where the rocks congregated to paddle. Once we reached the plateau 1000m above sea level, where I'd be running and jumping off, I absorbed the 320 view that rose from the steep drop infront of my walking boots (accounting for the road there) with about 10 others, pausing after their assents to the spot on bikes, horses or feet. The instructions were as simple as: push your all weight forward and run until your feet not touch the ground, on my "go go go". And with that and a quick harness adjustement we were up! Staggering drop was marvelous and I could see so much from my little seat- including a small waterfall, and the cars winding their way along the tracks below. It was so calm and peaceful being above everything in sight, slightly more exciting when he made us "dance" in the air. We spotted condors as we swooped though the air and a few other paragliders, with their bleeping altitudemeters. All too soon a running landing saw us safely back on the ground as the chute floated and collapsed in a neat pile to our right. We parted with argentine kisses (one on the right cheek) all round, and delighted with the mornings events, I jumped back in the truck to head back into the central green (or should I say brown, the grass was dying and there were water shortage notices everywhere so we had to be sparing).
Rhi was knackered from her 3 hours clambering over rivers and steep mountain faces so I parted with her once again to do a mountain bike treck over them with my guide Ierail. It was incredible. We splashed through rivers and hopped to avoid rocks, I fell quite a few times to end up running down the slope! The ground was so dry and dusty that the tyres slipped easily if you werent concentrating! The sun beat down on us hard and with no shade to protect us we stopped often to rehydrate, gazing over the views surrounding us, which were so gorgeous, the autumn leaves lit up in the sunshine to blazing firey colours. We also stopped off at an alfahores factory - and I was pleased to discover I could understand a few parts of the tour (including all the different flavours they did there)! I thoroughly enjoyed the free ones we got, the finest ones I've tasted in all my time here!
I have to go catch a bus to Salta now but I shall continue when I next reach a computer!! XX
We rose early in the morning, Rhi setting out to horseride in the mountains and me to satisfy my addiction to the sky: I went Paragliding! The sun heated the cool morning air quickly and I was glad to be hurtling along a mountain road in a red rusting truck with the windows down and the dust blowing through my hair. We darted around cyclists the entire way, swerving to miss larger rocks and ruts in the dirt track, and jiggling over cattle grates. Conversation was a real mess of spanish, english and french! But we got by and taught eachother a little of each. The mountains opened up infront of us to reveal a valley speckled with cactuses amongst a thick covering of bundled greenery, that thinned out towards the river where the rocks congregated to paddle. Once we reached the plateau 1000m above sea level, where I'd be running and jumping off, I absorbed the 320 view that rose from the steep drop infront of my walking boots (accounting for the road there) with about 10 others, pausing after their assents to the spot on bikes, horses or feet. The instructions were as simple as: push your all weight forward and run until your feet not touch the ground, on my "go go go". And with that and a quick harness adjustement we were up! Staggering drop was marvelous and I could see so much from my little seat- including a small waterfall, and the cars winding their way along the tracks below. It was so calm and peaceful being above everything in sight, slightly more exciting when he made us "dance" in the air. We spotted condors as we swooped though the air and a few other paragliders, with their bleeping altitudemeters. All too soon a running landing saw us safely back on the ground as the chute floated and collapsed in a neat pile to our right. We parted with argentine kisses (one on the right cheek) all round, and delighted with the mornings events, I jumped back in the truck to head back into the central green (or should I say brown, the grass was dying and there were water shortage notices everywhere so we had to be sparing).
Rhi was knackered from her 3 hours clambering over rivers and steep mountain faces so I parted with her once again to do a mountain bike treck over them with my guide Ierail. It was incredible. We splashed through rivers and hopped to avoid rocks, I fell quite a few times to end up running down the slope! The ground was so dry and dusty that the tyres slipped easily if you werent concentrating! The sun beat down on us hard and with no shade to protect us we stopped often to rehydrate, gazing over the views surrounding us, which were so gorgeous, the autumn leaves lit up in the sunshine to blazing firey colours. We also stopped off at an alfahores factory - and I was pleased to discover I could understand a few parts of the tour (including all the different flavours they did there)! I thoroughly enjoyed the free ones we got, the finest ones I've tasted in all my time here!
I have to go catch a bus to Salta now but I shall continue when I next reach a computer!! XX
Skydiving
What a beautiful city Corduba is from above! Surrounded by gorgeous velvety looking mountains and perfectly square fields of gold, rust and green. Skydiving is the only way to see it!! It was incredible, I've never travelled so fast in my life without anything but gravity to help me along. The wind whistles past you obscuring all other noises, I could barely hear myself screaming. The sense of space is unreal its like flying though another dimension. You cant explain falling knowing that there is nothing to stop you or get in your path, usually something that is a natural association. We drove out to a remote airfield with a German who had been once before...just that Monday! (It was Thursday) which just confirmed all the great things we'd heard about it. My stomach was in knots when he took us through the proceedure in the model plane but knowing Rhi was with me made it slightly better! Until he asked us who was gloing first that is...! Rhi didn't want to so I filled that position, better to get on with it, I think it was better not to stand around waiting for something like that! My instructor installed trust and courage in me and we stepped out towards the demonstration plane as the wind from its propellors whipped around me. That was when I realised the plane was no model! There was just enough room for the 4 of us - cameraman, pilot, instructor and me. Tucked comfortably into the grey carpeted interior of the cockpit we bounced over the tufts of grass towards the red dirt "runway". After an age of plane checks, we finally hurtled off, and made our steady climb over Corduba. The city shrank surprisingly quickly but the views were stunning. The sky was completely clear of clouds so I had no sense of how high we were, but the sun streamed in through the scuffed windows. When the instructor told me to swivel round and sit on him so he could strap us together and do all the equipment checks, I was calm. I couldnt say why, maybe the ride in the sky relaxed or distracted me. Either way it was only when the cameraman popped the door up and my goggles went on that I thought here goes! We shuffled forwards to sit with our legs tucked to the right of the plane's wheel as the air poured around us, the cameraman clinging onto the side of the plane. I didn't have time to think before we PLUNGED downwards. The flip my stomach does on a rollercoaster was nothing compared to this feeling. It was terrifying, for about 3 seconds. Then it was just brilliant. Terminal velocity couldnt have felt better. The air streamed past me yet I didnt feel as if I was falling, just completely free (bearing in mind I couldnt see the instructor above me) When the parachute deployed after 20 seconds of freefall, it felt as if we were being pulled upwards on a rope. It was over all to quickly. Just hanging there in the harness after the most pulsequickening 20 seconds of your life is so contrary. You feel like a limp baby. Then you remind yourself to drink in the landscape and after swooping around in the breeze as the houses rotate under you, the airfield suddenly pops into sight. Such a soft landing, we just brushed onto the grass and I felt like Id been placed onto a cushion! Jumped up and grinned. I threw my arms round my instructor and thanked him for one of the most amazing experiences of my life. The video was put on straight away, so comical. I knew Rhi would love it. As her plane climbed up (I didnt realise just how high Id gone, the plane was almost out of sight!) I was still on a high, in the tranquill deckchair and my multicoloured jumpsuit. Paradoxical morning that's for sure.
I honestly reccommend it to you.
Till next time.
x
I honestly reccommend it to you.
Till next time.
x
Monday, 26 April 2010
Cordoba
Corduba is a much cleaner and smaller and slightly more boring, dare I say, version of BA! Its certainly nice not to have to watch where you are putting your feet all the time to avoid dog poo and rubbish though! The weather has warmed up temporarily again and I fell asleep reading my book this afternoon on the rooftop that looks out over the concrete blocks of appartments and corrugated iron roofs stretching out to reach the crisp blue sky, pierced by the sun. I could hear the bird next door accompanied by the traffic in the street below and the hostel's dog. I dont know what type it is as I cant see it but it can sound like a screech, a child, or a cocatoo or something! It also sings tunes! Anyway, yesterday we wondered towards the Plaza San Martin hoping to get into the peachy coloured cathedral that looks like a sandcastle that someone has put far too much work into! Unfortunately, due to the Catholic nature of the country, EVERYTHING was closed! So we sat and read amongst the pidgeons in the deserted square on the wooden benches, looking across at the fountain and statue which has a rider too big for the horse! (similar to the BA one) Considering people tend to be shorter than the average UK resident out here, I dont think I can put it down to just being in a different country! I have discovered the 2 best treats in the world out here: Alfahores and sugared donuts filled with dulche de leche!! Heaven in a mouthful. They do them too well! The parks out here are nothing on Hyde park, partly as the grass is all dead! But, we had fun in the playground and also went on a fairground we stumbled upon with our new Israeli friend, Naor, who left with 8 days left of his trip yesterday! I myself have just passed the halfway point, can't believe how quickly its flown by but it seems like an age until I return too. Had a fantastic spanish style omlette cooked on the beast of an oven in this place! I am appreciating the cheap cost of living more and more each day I spend out here. For referance: A good bottle of wine = 2pounds (thers no pound sign on this keyboard, sorry folks :P!) excellent steak with drinks out in a restaurant = 10 pounds, bottled water = 20p and my wonderful, clean, spacious and faultless accommodation is 8 pounds a night (in a room supposed to be shared by 6 that we have all to ourselves at the moment!!) Such a treat. I love the high ceilings everywhere we go in Argentina, it gives you an extra sense of space even if you are in a small bedroom. We met a Danish couple today who bravely, or stupidly, are travelling with a 5 month old baby!! I don't know how, think of all the stuff you have to take out for one AFTERNOON in the park with a kid, now try and fit that into a backpack! Then the space for a travel cot and buggy doesnt bear thinking about! We've also met quite a few people who live out here but work via the internet, to name one, Martin, who is a 40 year old Danish historian, very interesting fellow! Something I wouldnt mind doing myself in the years to come! Now back to my fantastic book, Shantaram! Lots of Love XX
Monday, 5 April 2010
Well here I am in Buenos Aires having had an easy sleep filled flight from New Zealand, with no films!! 11.5 hours without film is boring to say the least but lucky for me my book is hotting up. Spanish music and sunlight floods this quaint hostel where breakfast is free and wonderfully continental! So many nationalities, the conversation round the breakfast table was in German, Spanish and English!
New Zealand seems so long ago already, but it was a beautiful blast conducted briskly by our host, Paula. The beaches she toured us around on the West were black sand so soft I was happy to have my shoes filled with it as it flowed around my toes! The other side of the beach where the sand was half dry half wet crunched lightly underfoot too - a new ensation and how id expect it to feel walking on chocolate icing that has slightly set! I swam in the sea even though, in their autumn, it was pretty chilly! The surfers in their full wetsuits gave me some funny looks!Still warmer than the English sea though.
I think it took about 2 weeks to adjust to the heat in Singapore then Bangkok, and not feel tired from doing the smallest thing. To suddenly plunge into an atmosphere of 20 degrees felt very cold! I was wrapped up in 2 pairs of legging, my hoodie and as many of tops as I could fit on underneath that! Bad move not bringing any trousers out, but it gives me an excuse to buy some new jeans hehe. The other side of the coast near Aukland had yellow sand and had some great stacks and stumps I could appreciate from good old geography textbooks! We also went to Palm Beach for a very enjoyable boozy (filled with wine tasting) lunch with Paula´s friend Leslie, on Wanheke Island which had some stunning views of the sea and the white motor boats that compltely filled the harbour. Wine Tasting was also on the list of things to do, and now I know a little more about the type of white wine I most enjoy! The vineyards were beautiful and rolled away into the valleys and up the other sides.
Lounging around by the pool back at her house was wonderfully relaxing too. Also spent an evening in their "spa" - outdoor Jacuzzi to you and me. The house was spacious, light and so neat and tidy I didn´t feel I could sprawl out quite how I might have otherwise. The bed I slept in was a dream though compared to all the hard hostel fouton type things I´ve had over the last 3 weeks, and it was luxurious to have a duvet.
The architechture was very strange. All the houses were clapboard as opposed to stone or brick and looked like they had been put up temporarily until their real house was finished being built. Or they returned home having had a nice summer holiday! Apparently most people have 2 houses though - a "bach" nearer the beach where families will spend their holiday periods. The landscape was green with some trees very similar to England but with more tropical looking plams here and there and brown grass as theyd had hardl any rain.
Also visited a house sunk into the hill with a grass roof which we ate some BREAD on which I am missing so much! A little like the tellytubbies place, it was amazing, the sunset occured right infront of us and a possum appeared (illegal pet they are keeping as the son shot its mother!) and we ate dinner outside by candlight with kiwis dangling overhead. Another world truly. Really enjoyed being thrown into their lifestyle. Great cooking too. Bacon and eggs for brekkie and generally strong flavours and sauces with lots of roast chicken.
I am getting off to the cemetary where Evita was buried now! Will keep in touch. Much love to all!! XXXXXXX
New Zealand seems so long ago already, but it was a beautiful blast conducted briskly by our host, Paula. The beaches she toured us around on the West were black sand so soft I was happy to have my shoes filled with it as it flowed around my toes! The other side of the beach where the sand was half dry half wet crunched lightly underfoot too - a new ensation and how id expect it to feel walking on chocolate icing that has slightly set! I swam in the sea even though, in their autumn, it was pretty chilly! The surfers in their full wetsuits gave me some funny looks!Still warmer than the English sea though.
I think it took about 2 weeks to adjust to the heat in Singapore then Bangkok, and not feel tired from doing the smallest thing. To suddenly plunge into an atmosphere of 20 degrees felt very cold! I was wrapped up in 2 pairs of legging, my hoodie and as many of tops as I could fit on underneath that! Bad move not bringing any trousers out, but it gives me an excuse to buy some new jeans hehe. The other side of the coast near Aukland had yellow sand and had some great stacks and stumps I could appreciate from good old geography textbooks! We also went to Palm Beach for a very enjoyable boozy (filled with wine tasting) lunch with Paula´s friend Leslie, on Wanheke Island which had some stunning views of the sea and the white motor boats that compltely filled the harbour. Wine Tasting was also on the list of things to do, and now I know a little more about the type of white wine I most enjoy! The vineyards were beautiful and rolled away into the valleys and up the other sides.
Lounging around by the pool back at her house was wonderfully relaxing too. Also spent an evening in their "spa" - outdoor Jacuzzi to you and me. The house was spacious, light and so neat and tidy I didn´t feel I could sprawl out quite how I might have otherwise. The bed I slept in was a dream though compared to all the hard hostel fouton type things I´ve had over the last 3 weeks, and it was luxurious to have a duvet.
The architechture was very strange. All the houses were clapboard as opposed to stone or brick and looked like they had been put up temporarily until their real house was finished being built. Or they returned home having had a nice summer holiday! Apparently most people have 2 houses though - a "bach" nearer the beach where families will spend their holiday periods. The landscape was green with some trees very similar to England but with more tropical looking plams here and there and brown grass as theyd had hardl any rain.
Also visited a house sunk into the hill with a grass roof which we ate some BREAD on which I am missing so much! A little like the tellytubbies place, it was amazing, the sunset occured right infront of us and a possum appeared (illegal pet they are keeping as the son shot its mother!) and we ate dinner outside by candlight with kiwis dangling overhead. Another world truly. Really enjoyed being thrown into their lifestyle. Great cooking too. Bacon and eggs for brekkie and generally strong flavours and sauces with lots of roast chicken.
I am getting off to the cemetary where Evita was buried now! Will keep in touch. Much love to all!! XXXXXXX
Monday, 29 March 2010
Wow Koh Chang is a little haven of beach, travellers, sunshine and comfortable(ish) floor seating around little coffee type tables. All shoes off policy at the doors. living on freash fruit and muesli in the mornings, having wild nights out and days resting on the beach. Water is bath temperature! Loved every minute a truly blissfull holiday where I met so many lovely people who are so happy to talk about such an interesting and wide variety of topics!! I will strive to make my next blog longer, but I keep leaving it to the last minute in the internet cafes after I've done my skyping!! so apologies for that! Love love XXX
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Saturday, 20 March 2010
Tuesday, 16 March 2010
Dear all,
So much has happened already! Flights boring but bearable. Switched to singapore time easily with the help of siestas. Food is very english was tickled to see waitrose granola in the local grocery store. Mangostines are my new favourite fruit. Night time swims in the local lit pool are a must followed by reading on the loungers with a late 10 dinner (waiting that long for dinner took me some getting used to!) Have walked barefoot down the streets with the monsoon rain gushing over my feet - attempted to play pooh sticks in the storm drains which was impossible! Kids and family I am staying with here are so lovely and make great company. They play outside until mozzie hour begins, drawing with chalk on the terrace and putting goggles on to go out into the rain - the water guns seem pointless when you are wet through already! Went to the zoo which is naturally set in Jungle and the animals open air, so much kinder to them and you can get alot closer! Photos will demonstrate. Also went to national Singapore gallery which was very interesting - food, fashion, photography and history. Jazz in the botanical gardens was wonderful. Smells damp after rain instead of fresh like inside the eden project but real! Earplugs are a must with the air conditioning (a cool 25 degrees in my room) I am woken each morning by a cockeral, parrots and tropical bird sounds. Cold stone throughout the house is refreshing on the feet. Humidity takes some getting used to - I feel burnt all the time from it, even though i have yet to see the sun (it has been cloudy with heavy rainstorms here) strange sensation. We were forced to eat our takeaway soupy, spicy noodles on the street side under the metal reinforced awnings when the rain hit unexpectedly. All great fun though. It is very cool here, reletively of course. So I have yet to experience the full force of the heat. So clean. So safe. So friendly. Incredible houses - all rented as they are too expensive to own. Planning to go to chinatown tomrrow and to see the buddha (dubious spelling) temple. Hope that quells your questions for now! Lots of love to all XXXX
So much has happened already! Flights boring but bearable. Switched to singapore time easily with the help of siestas. Food is very english was tickled to see waitrose granola in the local grocery store. Mangostines are my new favourite fruit. Night time swims in the local lit pool are a must followed by reading on the loungers with a late 10 dinner (waiting that long for dinner took me some getting used to!) Have walked barefoot down the streets with the monsoon rain gushing over my feet - attempted to play pooh sticks in the storm drains which was impossible! Kids and family I am staying with here are so lovely and make great company. They play outside until mozzie hour begins, drawing with chalk on the terrace and putting goggles on to go out into the rain - the water guns seem pointless when you are wet through already! Went to the zoo which is naturally set in Jungle and the animals open air, so much kinder to them and you can get alot closer! Photos will demonstrate. Also went to national Singapore gallery which was very interesting - food, fashion, photography and history. Jazz in the botanical gardens was wonderful. Smells damp after rain instead of fresh like inside the eden project but real! Earplugs are a must with the air conditioning (a cool 25 degrees in my room) I am woken each morning by a cockeral, parrots and tropical bird sounds. Cold stone throughout the house is refreshing on the feet. Humidity takes some getting used to - I feel burnt all the time from it, even though i have yet to see the sun (it has been cloudy with heavy rainstorms here) strange sensation. We were forced to eat our takeaway soupy, spicy noodles on the street side under the metal reinforced awnings when the rain hit unexpectedly. All great fun though. It is very cool here, reletively of course. So I have yet to experience the full force of the heat. So clean. So safe. So friendly. Incredible houses - all rented as they are too expensive to own. Planning to go to chinatown tomrrow and to see the buddha (dubious spelling) temple. Hope that quells your questions for now! Lots of love to all XXXX
Sunday, 7 March 2010
Introduction
Hello my lovelies,
I am sitting here at home, with the english sunshine pouring over my shoulders. I have exactly 6 days remaining until I finally leave this country, for the trip I have worked so hard for! My packed bag sits in my bedroom behind me, full of summer clothes and my anticipation. For those of you who want to know the details of my itinery I give you the below, all times are local:-
13 Mar, 13:45 London Heathrow to Dubai - arrive 00:25
14 Mar, 02:45 Dubai to Singapore - arrive 13:45
31 Mar, 19:20 Bangkok to Auckland - arrive 12:45
04 Apr, 18:30 Aukland to Buenos Aires - arrive 15:20
From here we plan to travel around by bus and luxury coach to the Iguaza Falls, Corrientes, Corduba, Salta. Then into Bolivia to see the salt flats and La Paz. Then into Peru for Arequipa, Cuzco, and trekking the Machu Picchu.
31 May, 05:33 Lima to Panama City - arrive 09:03
31 May, 09:51 Panama City to Mexico City - arrive 12:41
14 Jun, 21:35 Mexico City to London Heathrow - arrive 13:55
I will be updating you on my tales and adventures as I go (or whenever I can manage to find an internet cafe!) So if you want to follow me, watch this space!
Lots of love
X
I am sitting here at home, with the english sunshine pouring over my shoulders. I have exactly 6 days remaining until I finally leave this country, for the trip I have worked so hard for! My packed bag sits in my bedroom behind me, full of summer clothes and my anticipation. For those of you who want to know the details of my itinery I give you the below, all times are local:-
13 Mar, 13:45 London Heathrow to Dubai - arrive 00:25
14 Mar, 02:45 Dubai to Singapore - arrive 13:45
31 Mar, 19:20 Bangkok to Auckland - arrive 12:45
04 Apr, 18:30 Aukland to Buenos Aires - arrive 15:20
From here we plan to travel around by bus and luxury coach to the Iguaza Falls, Corrientes, Corduba, Salta. Then into Bolivia to see the salt flats and La Paz. Then into Peru for Arequipa, Cuzco, and trekking the Machu Picchu.
31 May, 05:33 Lima to Panama City - arrive 09:03
31 May, 09:51 Panama City to Mexico City - arrive 12:41
14 Jun, 21:35 Mexico City to London Heathrow - arrive 13:55
I will be updating you on my tales and adventures as I go (or whenever I can manage to find an internet cafe!) So if you want to follow me, watch this space!
Lots of love
X
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